Is my home suitable for a heat pump?

1. Insulation and airtightness

A heat pump runs at lower temperatures, so heat that escapes through walls, the attic and draughty windows matters more. Attic insulation and cavity wall insulation are cheap and grant supported, and are usually the first things an assessor will recommend.

Solid wall homes, Georgian, Victorian and many 1930s terraces, need internal or external wall insulation to reach the target, which is the main extra cost in older parts of the city.

2. Your BER

Your BER is a quick guide. Homes rated A to C are generally ready. D rated homes often need one or two upgrades. E, F and G rated homes nearly always need fabric work first. The BER isn't the test itself; the technical assessment is.

3. Radiators vs underfloor heating

• Underfloor heating is ideal: a large warm surface working at low temperature.
• Existing radiators can work if they're big enough. The installer's room by room heat loss calculation will show which ones need upsizing.
• Microbore (narrow) pipework often needs replacing. SEAI's central heating grant helps with radiators and pipework.

Try the 45°C test this winter

If you have a gas or oil boiler with an adjustable flow temperature, turn it down to 45°C on a cold day and leave it for a few days. If the house stays warm, your radiators are probably big enough for a heat pump and you may need few changes. If some rooms go cold, those are the radiators an installer will want to upsize.

It isn't a substitute for a heat loss calculation, but it costs nothing and tells you what to expect before anyone quotes.

Space you'll need

• Outdoor: a spot about 1 m × 1 m on a wall or the ground with clear air flow. Since 27 July 2026 it can go on the front of a house, as long as it doesn't encroach onto the public road.
• Indoor: room for a hot water cylinder (roughly 60 cm across, 1.5 to 2 m tall) in a hot press or utility.
• Electrics: your fuse board may need an upgrade; a single phase supply is fine for most homes.